What are retinoids, and what effect do they have in skincare?
Retinoids include several well-known skincare favourites, such as retinol, retinal and HPR. With their renewing properties and smoothing effects, retinoid products have become a popular choice - and you can be sure to find a retinoid that suits your skin type and the results you want.
Here, we guide you through everything you need to know about retinoids in skincare, so you can enjoy the powerful effects these active ingredients have to offer.
What are retinoids?
Retinoids are variants of vitamin A, which can either be found naturally in the body or produced synthetically for use in skincare. The name ‘retinoids’ covers all derivatives of vitamin A and therefore includes retinal, retinyl esters and retinol, which you may have heard of before.
Synthetic retinoids are developed to mimic the natural effects of vitamin A in the skin. They are often made more potent and stable so they can deliver targeted and effective results in skincare.
Retinol vs retinoid - what's the difference?
Retinol is a specific type of retinoid. While retinol is a natural form of vitamin A, retinoid is the overarching term for all variants derived from vitamin A.
For a retinoid to have an effect on the skin, it must undergo a conversion process into retinoic acid. The more easily a retinoid is converted into retinoic acid, the more potent and effective it is. Retinyl requires three conversion steps to become retinoic acid, retinol requires two conversion steps, while retinal requires a single step.
There are also other variants of vitamin A that can be found in skincare, including oleyl adapalenate, hydroxypinacolone retinoate (HPR Retinoid), retinyl propionate and retinyl palmitate.
What do retinoids do?
Retinoids are active signalling substances that work in the deeper layers of the skin by communicating directly with skin cells, boosting and stimulating them.
When retinoids communicate with cells, they trigger processes such as cell renewal and collagen synthesis - processes that repair and renew the skin, making it firmer and more even.
When retinoids are absorbed into the skin, they are converted into retinoic acid, an active form of vitamin A. Retinoic acid improves the appearance of the skin, effectively treats skin concerns and rebuilds the skin's structure.
Read more about vitamin A here
What effect do retinoids have in skincare?
Retinoids have a well-documented effect on the skin when used in skincare products. They are loved both for their anti-ageing effects and their ability to smooth and even out skin tone.
The effects of retinoids appear quickly on the skin, particularly by reducing fine lines and wrinkles, balancing sebum production, reducing the visibility of pores and pigmentation spots and improving skin firmness.
Retinoids have many benefits, and as well as improving the skin's appearance, they can also support its structure deep down, gradually making the skin stronger and more even.
Depending on the type of retinoid you choose and how often you use the product, you can look forward to feeling and seeing improvements in your skin.
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How should I use retinoids?
Use your retinoid product in the evening as a regular part of your skincare routine so the retinoids can work overnight. You can also use your retinoid product in the morning, but always remember to apply sun protection afterwards to protect your skin from UV rays.
Apply retinoids after cleansing your skin, and finish with a moisturising cream to protect and soothe the skin after the active ingredients.
Start by using your retinoid skincare product a couple of times a week, and let your skin get used to the active ingredients before increasing the frequency.
At what age can I start using retinoids?
Retinoids are active vitamin A substances that can initially make the skin more sensitive, particularly to sunlight. That's why it's important to take it slowly and let your skin get used to retinoids.
Using retinoids therefore depends less on age and more on listening to your skin's signals. As a rule of thumb, however, it's often a good idea to wait until your late 20s before using more potent retinoids. This is when the skin's natural cell renewal begins to slow down slightly.
Read also: Skincare for young people before puberty
Good to know about retinoids in skincare
There are different retinoids that can pamper your skin in the form of creams, serums or lotions. Retinoids vary in strength and potency. Some retinoids are so potent that they are only available on prescription, including tretinoin and some variants of adapalene. Fortunately, there are several effective retinoids, such as retinal and hydroxypinacolone retinoate (HPR Retinoid), that you can benefit from through over-the-counter skincare products.
Retinoids with other active ingredients
You can achieve visible results by combining retinoids and other active ingredients in your skincare routine. However, it can be a good idea to alternate between the products and always pay attention to your skin's signals. For example, alternate between your retinol serum and your mask with AHA and BHA acids, so the skin can be both exfoliated and renewed.
Skincare products with retinoids can also be alternated in an evening routine with nourishing ingredients such as vitamin C, niacinamide and hyaluronic acid. These ingredients will soothe the skin, strengthen its barrier and protect it from environmental damage, so it can better absorb the retinoids.
An effective skincare routine will gradually smooth skin texture and even out skin tone, reducing fine lines and the visibility of pores and making the skin more even.
Tips for starting to use retinoids
- Remember sun protection: Always remember to use sun protection in the morning, especially after using skincare with active ingredients. Consider using sun care with SPF 30 or above.
- Cleanse and care: For the optimal effect from your retinoids, use your retinoid product after cleansing your face. Finish with a nourishing cream with moisturising ingredients such as hyaluronic acid.
- Frequency and strength: If you experience a lot of sensitivity, peeling or itching after using retinoids, use your retinoid product less frequently or choose a product with a lower strength.
- Moisturising products: To be gentle on sensitive skin, you can apply your retinoid product between two moisturising products. This encapsulates the active ingredients and allows the skin to absorb them gradually. For example, use our Hyaluronic Serum beforehand and our Day Cream afterwards.
