
Azelaic acid
INCI: Azelaic Acid
Mild acid for skin prone to redness and blemishes
Strong evidence: systematic reviews
At a glance
- Suits
- Skin prone to redness and blemishes
- Helps with
- Redness, Blemishes, Pigmentation spots
- Found in
- 1 ECOOKING product
What can azelaic acid help with?
Redness
As a medicine, azelaic acid has been thoroughly studied for rosacea with redness and small inflamed pimples. In four out of five controlled studies, gel with 15 % or cream with 20 % azelaic acid reduced redness and pimples more than the same product without it.[1] In two large studies, 44 % and 46 % experienced reduced redness with the gel with 15 % azelaic acid, compared with 29 % and 28 % with the gel without it.[2]
Blemishes
Azelaic acid works against the bacteria that contribute to blemishes and makes it easier for dead skin cells in the pores to shed.[4]
Pigmentation spots
Azelaic acid is also used for pigmentation changes such as melasma because it can reduce pigment production in the skin.[3]
How it works
How to use it
- Use the product on clean skin and follow the instructions.
- Try the product on a small area first.
- If you use medication for your skin, ask your doctor first.
Products with azelaic acid
Frequently asked questions
Azelaic acid is the English name for azelaic acid, and it is also the name used on the ingredient list. The acid occurs naturally in grains such as wheat, barley and rye, but for skincare it is made in a laboratory.
Azelaic acid is best studied as a medicine. A review of controlled studies found that medicines containing azelaic acid reduced redness and spots associated with rosacea more than equivalent products without azelaic acid. Review articles also describe an effect on acne and pigmentation changes. The results apply to the medicines and cannot be directly transferred to skincare.
It is the INCI name for azelaic acid, the name used on ingredient lists throughout the EU. Ingredients are generally listed in descending order of quantity, but those below 1 % may be listed in any order at the end. You cannot see the exact amount on the list.
It is the same substance, but the products have different purposes. Medicines containing azelaic acid are prescribed by a doctor to treat conditions such as rosacea and acne, and the evidence applies specifically to those medicines. In skincare, azelaic acid is used for the daily care of skin prone to redness and blemishes.
Sources
- Azelaic acid in the treatment of papulopustular rosacea: a systematic review of randomized controlled trials (Archives of dermatology, 2006)
- Efficacy and safety of azelaic acid (15%) gel as a new treatment for papulopustular rosacea: results from two vehicle-controlled, randomized phase III studies (Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, 2003)
- The versatility of azelaic acid in dermatology (Journal of dermatological treatment, 2022)
- Azelaic acid: Properties and mode of action (Skin pharmacology and physiology, 2014)