
Glycolic acid
INCI: Glycolic Acid
AHA acid that loosens dead skin cells and smooths the skin
Good evidence: randomised trials
At a glance
- Suits
- Normal, oily and mature skin – also rough skin on the body
- Helps with
- Pigmentation spots, Mature skin, Rough skin on the body
- Pairs well with
- Hyaluronic acid, Niacinamide, Lactic acids
- Found in
- 6 ECOOKING products
What can glycolic acid help with?
Pigmentation spots
In a three-month double-blind study, skin had a smoother surface and a more even skin tone with a daily cream containing 5 % glycolic acid than with the same cream without it.[2]
Mature skin
In a 22-week study of women between 40 and 70 years old, 76 % saw a visible improvement in sun-damaged facial skin with a cream containing 8 % glycolic acid. With the cream without glycolic acid, the figure was 40 %.[1]
Rough skin on the body
A review of studies on keratosis pilaris, the small rough bumps on upper arms and thighs, found that glycolic acid and lactic acid had an effect when applied to the skin.[3]
How it works
How to use it
- Start slowly and follow the instructions.
- Take a break if your skin becomes red, and do not use the product on sunburned skin.
- Remember sunscreen during the day.
Products with glycolic acid
Frequently asked questions
It is the INCI name for glycolic acid, the name used on ingredient lists throughout the EU. Ingredients are generally listed in descending order of quantity, but those below 1 % may be listed in any order at the end. You cannot see the exact amount on the list.
In two double-blind studies, participants used creams containing 5 % and 8 % glycolic acid for three to five months. Compared with equivalent creams without acid, they produced smoother skin, a more even skin tone and a visible improvement in sun-damaged skin. A review of studies on rough skin with small bumps (keratosis pilaris) highlighted glycolic acid and lactic acid as the preferred acids for use on the skin.
Glycolic acid has the smallest molecule of the AHAs, and small molecules reach between the cells in the skin’s outermost layer more easily. But the product’s formulation also matters greatly, both for its effect and for how easily the skin becomes irritated.
pH affects how glycolic acid works in a product. So do the amount, the other ingredients and how you use the product. The percentage alone therefore does not tell you how strongly a product exfoliates.
Sources
- Topical 8% glycolic acid and 8% L-lactic acid creams for the treatment of photodamaged skin. A double-blind vehicle-controlled clinical trial (Archives of dermatology, 1996)
- A double-blind randomized clinical trial on the effectiveness of a daily glycolic acid 5% formulation in the treatment of photoaging (Dermatologic surgery, 1998)
- Keratosis pilaris: a systematic review of the literature and strategies for optimal treatment (European journal of dermatology, 2025)
- Cosmetic and dermatologic use of alpha hydroxy acids (Journal der Deutschen Dermatologischen Gesellschaft, 2012)